The prongs go in the wrong side smoothly and punch out the other side leaving a rough hole. Short of taking your fabric to a lab for identification, the fabric burn test is the most dependable way to determine a fabric material of unknown origin. In my patterns I like to include additional tips that will help you consider other factors as you grow in experience in working with stretch fabrics! For example same construction same density plain weave 1/1 will tend poor growth percentage, poor … – 30.5 cm ( 30 cm 5 mm ) – 0.305m. The top and bottom of the loops can be seen as the lines on the back of the fabric. release the pulled end of the knit. If it does then you know you have 4 way stretch in that knit selection. Stretch the fabric across the ruler until it resists being stretched anymore. Below are some general rules for altering patterns for knits: • If the fabric has no stretch, as with a firm jersey or rugby-type knit, pattern alterations are usually unnecessary. Fabric has 10% stretch across the grain for added comfort and ease. Stretch denim is a relatively new type of denim cotton (or cotton/polyester blend) that incorporates a small amount of elastane, a stretchy, synthetic fiber, also known as Spandex, or Lycra, into the fabric. For example, order of 1 yard (Qty=1) is 58'' x 36''. Select your fabric and determine its stretch, as explained above, before trying to alter your pattern, since the alteration will depend on the fabric’s stretch. Step 2: Turn the fabric 90 degrees and pull the fabric once again. Cut small pieces of each fabric you want to test, such as 2-inch squares. If you usually wear a size 8 or 10 dress, your pattern size will be a couple of sizes larger like a 12 or a 14. If you have a patterned fabric and want to match up the design, before dividing by 36, add one vertical repeat per every extra width of fabric. Pay attention to the odor of the smoke. Stretch fabrics are not inherently difficult to sew with! 4-Way Stretch. The easiest way is to look at the selvedges. For example, if your fabric stretches to 7.5″, it stretched 2.5″ past the original length. Woven Fabric Stretch Recovery Tester, to determine the stretch properties of fabrics woven from stretch yarns under a specified tension and extension. While I may have discussed using stretch ratio to draft patterns, determining the stretch ratio of your fabric before you sew is also important. What happens if you make a mistake? These instructions will show you how to calculate how many yards you need for several different scenarios, whether your dimensions are larger or smaller than the width of your desired fabric. Stretch the fold to reach the end of the ruler, where the arrow finishes. We will take a look at how to determine the elasticity of a fabric. 5.2 These test methods is not recommended for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because the between-laboratory precision is known to be poor. Directional stretch and stretch percentage are important features when choosing the right fabric for your project. All you need is a ruler, a small cut of your knit fabric, and a calculator!FREE! If the fabric becomes warped after stretching it, that is a clear indicator that it was stretched beyond its intention. Stretch fabric simplifies sewing, as it is a figure-flattering material. 5.1 These test methods are used to determine the stretch, growth and recovery properties that garments made with the fabric tested may be expected to exhibit during use. Cut a square of fabric from a roll and draw a square 18"x18" on the fabric. All content is copyright Amy Chapman and Cloth Habit except where noted. Use this helpful guide to determine what fabrics to shop for your projects: Holding knit firmly at both pins, stretch the fabric and note the distance stretched beyond its original length. *Tip: Fold the fabric and stretch along the fold. Vinyl with a four-way stretch capability has a special formulation and a stretchy backing to help it excel in a variety of applications. Most commercial knit sewing patterns are designed for a specific fabric stretch ratio so your success in creating that garment is highly dependent on you choosing the right fabric for the project. 4 Way stretch refers to when the fabric can stretch both vertically and horizontally. Test the fabric perpendicular and parallel to the selvage to determine proper stretch direction and percentage. To determine the fabrics recovery, release the stretched end and note whether it returns back to its original size. If it stretches well, then it is most likely a 2-way stretch. If you usually wear a size 8 or 10 dress, your pattern size will be a couple of sizes larger like a 12 or a 14. The percent of stretch is a bit more important so let’s figure this out! Seems obvious that if fabric stretches one direction, it would also be able to stretch the opposing direction, but this is the basis for the terminology. What Are You Making? Fabric grain also affects the way fabric will hang and drape. On the stretch gauge, it's the part between the pins. Take the fabric and fold in half if you are working with a cut piece, do not stretch on the cut edge. You can compare the stretch against the percentage given. Fabric weave/compactness: Fabric having less interlacement meaning less compact fabric will lead to good stretch growth percentage and recovery. Tip. Try not to overstretch. Recovery. From the manufacturer. Read more. My goal is $2700 in order to manufacture 10 new stretch African print fabrics. Note your fabrics stretch percentage. The process can then be repeated on the opposite edge. Stretch percentage is estimated by stretching a fabric along a 4” - 8” ruler scale. Also, a little test you can do is to stretch the fabric, more then likely the right side will curl onto itself. If you run your fingers over them, one side is rougher than the other. To check elasticity on the width line, fold the piece in half following the same grain line direction. The term “2 Way Stretch” seems like it should be called “1 Way Stretch” however, the origin of this term is based on stabilizing a portion of fabric, and being able to stretch two ways: to the right and and left. How to determine stretch ratio Fold your fabric in half from selvedge to selvedge. On a ruler, stretch the fabric to its maximum without deforming it and take the measure done. To determine the stretch percentage, hold the fabric at the indicated marks and stretch until you feel resistance. If your fabric piece is missing selvage edges, you can test the stretch, remembering that fabric has more give on the cross grain. Watch this demonstration to understand what the right side of fabric is and to get some cool tricks to help you figure it out. The possibilities are truly endless! Hold the left side at the zero mark of your ruler and the right end at the 5” or 12cm mark. Use your thumb and index finger of your left hand to hold one side of the fold at 0 of the ruler. Some patterns will call out specifically the stretch percentage needed for the pattern to fit the best. Stretch fabrics can have mechanical stretch, in that they have a natural stretch based on the way they are made and do not include Lycra Spandex. Stretch jeans are a style of jeans made of stretch denim fabric. Once straight and cross grains are established, you can pull a thread along the straight grain as a reference for lining up your pattern pieces. The direction with hardly any stretch is the direction of the grain. With pins, measure a 10 cm/4″ section. Make a fold on your fabric and put the fold next to a ruler. You wouldn’t want fabric to be stretched beyond its capacity when wearing it, so likewise, yanking on the fabric will not give you the best percentage estimate, and it will likely warp the fabric, compromising its quality. Fabric weight is critical in order to find a suitable material for your needs and ensure the highest quality.. Pull the loose outer fabric up and over the stretcher bar’s edge. For example, 30.54cm will convert to. This direction has a lot of stretch on the fabric. Assessing fabric stretch across the grain - width. I may say yes! Is your whole project ruined? You’ll see a tiny but flattened triangle of fabric under the fold. But I'll get to that later. Copyright© 2016 Softhopper. Put 2 pins 4 inches apart and place a measuring tape below the fabric.Pull the fabric gently from the 4 inch mark towards the high numbers on the measuring tape. Since it stretched 2” past the 4” mark, and 2 is 50% of 4, then this fabric has 50% stretch. The knits fabrics (Jersey and ribs) have inherent stretch properties but to add an extra stretch the elastane filament is used. Note your fabrics stretch percentage. Fold your fabric square with the selvage, away from the cut edge (not parallel to the cut edge). If will work best with a seat width of 68" (left to right) with a seat depth of 24" (front to back). Curls to fabric’s right side; cut edges unravel only from end knitted last. This is one area that will no longer cause you any stress. You'll follow the size 12 column down the pattern to determine how much fabric you'll need. Super-stretch knits have a stretch percentage of 100% or greater in both length and width. This means the stretch percentage is 60%. To To determine the stretch percent of your fabric, grab a 5” section of your fabric and lay it next to a ruler. So now you know your fabric’s stretch percent, and often that is all you need to make an educated decision about what fabric you should use with a certain pattern. For more information, read Sandra ’s article, "Cutting Out" Be the First to Share. The fabric tears along one fabric fiber, revealing an edge that is the straight of grain. Be careful not to pull too hard or damage the fabric. For example, if you need your fabric to have 25% stretch, then you will want to test if the fabric can stretch to 5”. 4 oz/yd² 58'' wide. The measurement it comfortably reaches will indicate the percentage estimate. Use rubber gloves to protect your hands form the baking soda if you have sensitive skin. A size 12 pattern size means something different than a size 12 ready-to-wear. Stretch fit product fits most sofas up to 92” wide (arm to arm). Place a piece of the fabric in your fireproof container and ignite one corner. It is perfect for creating special occasion apparel blouses dresses lingerie and skirts. Let’s say a fabric has 50% stretch to it. noting the pressure required to distend the diaphragm the same amount without the presence of fabric Yet another method is to check the stretch of the fabric. Fabric Shrinkage Formula. If the inner folded fabric becomes loosened, stretch it flat again and repeat the process. Next up are the “backers”. I’m Amy Chapman, a pattern designer and sewing instructor. Differences in the level of stretch growth and level of recovery are very important for fabric functionality and performance. When tacking across the ends of the buttonhole be very careful not to catch the cord with the needle and don’t over do it, a few back and forth stitches are all you need. For example, if you need 3 widths of fabric to get the correct total width, add 2 times the vertical repeat to the total length before dividing by 36. Stretch is measured in percentages. Made of stainless steel; 4 lb and 3 lb tension weights are offered; Power Fabric Burn Test . For both denim and non-denim stretch fabric development, following factor need to be considered: Elasten/ spandex draft: Higher draft in spinning tends to poor growth but higher stretch percentage. Determine the proper buttonhole length and hook the cord around the back of the buttonholer and begin zig zagging up the right side of the cord. 97% Polyester/ 3% Lycra Spandex Very LightWeight Fabric: 0-3. Stable Knit Make a note of the stretch percentage of the weft first and then the warp. In this video, I'll show you the recommended fabric for the Aldaia dress pattern, designed for knits. Stretch fabric is a generic term for any textile, knitted or woven, that has a greater amount of recovery and stretch than is normally expected. Morbern ® Bayside is a high-quality upholstery vinyl that has some stretch, but not as much as Morbern Allsport 360° 4-Way Stretch Vinyl. Hold the fold of the fabric over the ruler printed on the back of your pattern envelope. The calculation is 4 X 125% = 5. When the fabric comes off the rollers the holes are left in the selvedge. 5-10% stretch Cotton smells like burning paper and has an afterglow at the end of the burn. Determine Fabric Stretch. Your stretch percentage is just the width of your fabric when stretched to it’s maximum divided by the width of your fabric when unstretched (minus 1). This french terry knit from So Sew English has 60% stretch. You are not stretching any fabric at all. Step 1). I realize that what type of knit will also affect the stretch (jersey vs. interlock, for example), but it's just killing me to look at fabrics online that only give the info "92% cotton/8% lycra" and have no idea how that would translate to degree of stretch. To properly determine fabric stretch, you must gently stretch the fabric and observe the recovery, similar to the performance needed as if it were made into a garment, going to be going over your head to put on, or fitting on your body. Now stretch the fabric until you feel it wants to spring back, don’t over stretch. Learn how to calculate your fabric's stretch percentage. Best use: Jersey with little or no crosswise or lengthwise stretch (like most wool jerseys) can be used for skirts, blouses, and dresses without pattern adjustments. Hold the left side at the zero mark of your ruler and the right end at the 5” or 12cm mark. (But if your fabric is stretchy, don’t do this….it will throw off your measurements because the fabric will most likely stretch. In this article, I would like to show you a simple test to help you determine whether your material is suitable for a given pattern. 2 Way Stretch refers to fabric having one orientation of stretch. Take our Sewing Quiz Every new adventure has a starting point. A good method is to take a 4 inch square piece of the fabric and stretch it; Keep it against a tape measure and see how it stretches out. To determine the fabrics recovery, release the stretched end and note whether it returns back to its original size. If you take 3 simple steps (choosing needle, thread, and stitch type) when you start sewing a stretch fabric project, you can proceed confidently every time. Either they have a percentage of spandex content in them (also known as Lycra) or they have a mechanical stretch. Think about the fabric on the rollers. Properties: Little or no lengthwise stretch, varying amounts of crosswise stretch. All right reserved. The method to determine the stretchiness of a fabric If it does not stretch then it is two-way fabric. A size 12 pattern size means something different than a size 12 ready-to-wear. In this video, I'll show you the recommended fabric for the Aldaia dress pattern, designed for knits. Specifications. The Sailrite crew is the best at helping you select the right upholstery fabric for your job. It starts with a creator ( in this case, me) and an idea ( stretch African print fabrics). Gently pull the fabric of the garment in all directions to stretch it out. Stretching fabric along a cut edge will not give the best estimate. Try to avoid the edge of the fabric, to have an more accurate measurement because selvage and borders tend to have a different stretch. Fabric grain also affects the way fabric will hang and drape. To determine the stretch percentage, hold the fabric at the indicated marks and stretch until you feel resistance. For example, this Art Gallery Skopelos Jersey Knit fabric can stretch to 6”. Please do not take content, images or illustrations without permission or credit. Lengthwise yarn stretches less than the crosswise yarn Dresses, shirts, blouses, skirts are cut with the lengthwise grain of the fabric coming down the body. Begin with fabric at ease on a 4” measurement, and stretch the fabric towards 8”. If you want to know the recovery of the fabric. That means 1″ of it will stretch out … Stretch jeans typically include about one to three percent elastane. Begin with fabric at ease on a 4” measurement, and stretch the fabric towards 8”. Stretch the garment gently with your hands. The measurement it comfortably reaches will indicate the percentage estimate. It is made partially of elastic fibers such as lycra, elastane, spandex (different names of the same synthetic fiber). Finding Your Straight Edge. Obviously, some fabrics are easier than others. Many sewing patterns will often include in their fabric recommendations a certain stretch percent (such as 50% stretch), or a percent of spandex (such as 3% spandex). thoughtful sewing techniques and patterns. Unsure if your fabric has the right amount of stretch? Do you ever feel confused by stretch fabrics and what works best for a pattern? Stretch the fabric across the ruler until it resists being stretched anymore. how to determine elasticity of your fabric Elastane, Spandex, Lycra… Once upon a … – 12 1/16″ ( the actual result is 12.0236ft, 12 1/16″ is in reality 12.0625″) – 1 ft ( the actual result is 1.001ft) – 3/8 yards ( the actual result is 0.33399 yards, 3/8 yards is in reality 0.375) Pattern sizes are much different than ready-to-wear sizes. Fabrics made with Lycra Spandex often have a greater stretch, and better recovery. Does anyone know of any rules of thumb to determine from the fabric content how that translates into stretch? Take our quiz to discover which type of sewist you are, and get recommendations that match your current goals. I love teaching other makers how to create pretty lingerie! If the knit returns to its original location, it has excellent recovery. Also it is important to note if the fabric returns to its original length. While I may have discussed using stretch ratio to draft patterns, determining the stretch ratio of your fabric before you sew is also important. To figure out where the grain is, pull your fabric in several directions. This is 50% stretch. Or if it’s a fabric made to stretch vertically- that 2 way stretch would be referring to its ability to stretch up and down. Likewise if your fabric stretches to 6”, which equals (4 X 150%), then your fabric has 50% stretch. And then use your thumb and index finger of your right hand to hold the fold at 4″ (about 10.2 cm). Then, you take the loose canvas remaining on this side and pull it up and over. Stretch fabric is a cloth which has the ability to stretch. (If using metric, grab 12cm.). Stabilizing a point of the fabric, it will be able to stretch four ways: up, down, right and left. I come up with a project objective and determine the cost to bring it to life. Whether you need upholstery fabric for chairs with removable cushions or are performing an entire revamp of your sofa, Sailrite has the best upholstery notions, fabrics and tools for the job. Did you make this … These textiles can be stretch-woven fabrics, single knits, some double knits, and even bias-cut fabrics. For example, this Art Gallery Skopelos Jersey Knit fabric can stretch to 6”. Since it stretched 2” past the 4” mark, and 2 is 50% of 4, then this fabric has 50% stretch. These calculations work for many projects, including pillows, cushions, fabric wallpaper, tablecloths, bedding, and headboards. You can cut the fabric in a partial bias direction or a true bias direction – with the true bias you get the greatest stretch – it is the most diagonal cut of a fabric. There are also knit fabrics which stretch due to the production method – looping. How to Do the Fabric Burn Test . The direction with hardly any stretch is the direction of the grain. Try not to overstretch. Lycra Spandex Blends Formula. … 30-50% stretch Step 1: stretch the fabric from side to side. 5.2 These test methods is not recommended for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because the between-laboratory precision is known to be poor. A fabric burn test won't tell you the exact name of the fabric you're dealing with, but it will help you match laundering and pressing needs. It's easy to figure out where the grain in a fabric is. At some point the fabric bursts, the pressure being indicated by the gauge G. Since the rubber diaphragm requires a certain pressure to stretch it, corrections may be made either by doing a blank test i.e. To calculate fabric shrinkage for any given fabric let's follow fabric shrinkage formula 3 simple steps below and record your before wash and after wast measurements to determine your total fabric shrinkage for width and length. In this quick video, you’ll learn a formula for calculating your fabric’s stretch percentage, so you’ll know if it’s right for your next knit garment. For example in the example shown below the stretch percentage would be 16/10-1 = 0.6 . Depending on your fabric, you may be able to fold it and have the straight of grain line up perfectly, no pinning required. Woven Fabric Stretch Recovery Tester, to determine the stretch properties of fabrics woven from stretch yarns under a specified tension and extension. These are ready made slipcovers and will stretch to fit a large variety of furniture. Fabric is sold by the yard and cut to order. To figure out where the grain is, pull your fabric in several directions. I think you could even get away with not having almost any prior patternmaking experience, because the book explains all the patternmaking terms, tools and techniques. We’ve narrowed down stretch characteristics in common groups to make online fabric shopping even easier: Stretch Write down the amount it stretched beyond the original length. Super-Stretch Knit. Most commercial knit sewing patterns are designed for a specific fabric stretch ratio so your success in creating that garment is highly dependent on you choosing the right fabric for the project. There are two different ways that fabrics can be stretchy. It's easy to figure out where the grain in a fabric is. 5.1 These test methods are used to determine the stretch, growth and recovery properties that garments made with the fabric tested may be expected to exhibit during use. There are some difficult stretch fabrics, just like there are some difficult woven fabrics. Super-stretch knit pattern require negative ease, think leotards, leggings, and even some types of athletic apparel. I promise. Most fabrics with 2 way stretch will have stretch horizontally, from selvedge to selvedge, with a few exceptions of fabrics designed to stretch only vertically along the selvedges.
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